A review of the components needed in a residential fire sprinkler system
Home fire sprinkler systems have a range of components, and the complexity of any given set-up depends on several factors, including if the system is standalone or multipurpose; the water supply to the sprinklers and whether it naturally provides sufficient pressure; the pipe used; and any requirements of your local or state government.
In part one of our series covering the installation of home fire sprinklers, we introduced how these systems work, explained the two major types of home systems, and provided guidance on finding a qualified installation contractor. In this piece, we will begin to review the major components of residential fire sprinklers, including special considerations that homeowners should be aware of when installing a system.
Before reading further, are you simply interested in purchasing components for a home sprinkler system? Feel free to jump directly to QRFS' selection of residential system components or use the search bar at the top of the page.
Residential fire sprinklers can save you thousands of dollars and are very affordable! (Image Source)
Different water sources use different components
The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) prioritized saving lives over property when it created its design and installation standard: NFPA 13D: Standard for the Installation of Sprinkler Systems in One- and Two-Family Dwellings and Manufactured Homes. To give occupants time to escape a fire, NFPA stipulates that sprinklers in most homes must have sufficient water supply to provide at least 10 minutes of coverage at required pressure and flow. There is an exception for one-story residences under 2,000 square feet, which only need enough water for 7 minutes of operation:
From the 2016 Edition of NFPA 13D:
6.1.1 Every automatic sprinkler system shall have at least one automatic water supply.
6.1.2 Where stored water is used as the sole source of supply, the minimum quantity shall equal the water demand rate times 10 minutes unless permitted otherwise by 6.1.3.
6.1.3 Where stored water is used as the sole source of supply, the minimum quantity shall be permitted to equal the two sprinkler water demand rate times 7 minutes where dwelling units meet the following criteria:
(1) One story in height
(2) Less than 2000 ft2 (186 m2) in area
NFPA also outlines five potential sources of water for a residential system, but the choices usually boil down to three major categories: the municipal water supply, a well, or some type of tank that exclusively stores water for the sprinkler system.
From the 2016 Edition of NFPA 13D:
The following water supply sources shall be considered to be acceptable by this standard:
(1) A connection to a reliable waterworks system with or without an automatically operated pump
(2) An elevated tank
(3) A pressure tank designed to American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) standards for a pressure vessel with a reliable pressure source
(4) A stored water source with an automatically operated pump
(5) A well with a pump of sufficient capacity and pressure to meet the sprinkler system demand
One of the first things an installation contractor will do when evaluating an existing residence or new home site is check the pressure of the city water supply (if there is one), as this is the default option to supply a fire sprinkler system. This may simply involve placing a pressure gauge on a hose outlet and turning it on. If the water main doesn’t deliver sufficient pressure (about 100 psi is a very safe number), the contractor will have to look at alternate options, whether that involves adding a pump to boost the pressure of the city water or using an elevated tank, a pressure tank, or a standard tank with a pump.
An example of a residential fire sprinkler system installation. (Image Source)
Elevated tanks use gravity to move the water, and they are very uncommon in residential systems. Pressure tanks use a source of pressurized gas (like nitrogen) to hit flow requirements and may be an option in a setting with an unreliable power grid. The majority of tanks will utilize an electric pump to move the water.
While the exact size of the tank will vary depending on the size of a house and its flow requirements, “most stored water systems will need less than 300 gal (1136 L) of stored water to satisfy the 10-minute demand.”
If a tank is necessary, this typically means the homeowner will install a standalone system rather than a multipurpose system. Homes that are only served by wells will likely use that water source with the aid of a pump, and well systems with sufficient pressure could service both multipurpose and standalone systems. It is also possible to use a separate tank if the home is served by a well.
When city water is the source, local regulations often require a water meter to measure water usage plus a backflow preventer, which is a one-way valve that prevents the standing water in the sprinkler system from making its way back into the potable water supply. Unfortunately, each of these additional parts adds friction that reduces available pressure in the system. Thus, a fire sprinkler contractor must install larger water taps and meters (of at least 1”) to minimize this impact, and account for the presence of these devices in the hydraulic calculations for the system.
In addition, “some water utilities insist on separate taps and supply pipes from the water supply to the dwelling unit for fire sprinkler systems … due to concerns about shutting off the water supply for nonpayment of bills and the desire not to shut off fire protection if this ever occurs.” Check your local requirements.
NFPA strongly discourages governments from requiring separate supply lines. The organization cites the potential health and safety issues of shutting off any water supply – whether it serves a fire sprinkler or regular plumbing – plus the fact that separate supply lines vastly increase the cost of sprinkler installations.
Be sure to follow NFPA Code and local guidelines when using a home fire sprinkler pump. (Image Source)
Special considerations for home fire sprinkler pumps
Adding a pump adds a little complexity to a system. NFPA outlines several requirements when a pump that only pressurizes the water supply for the sprinklers is used:
From the 2016 Edition of NFPA 13D:
(1) A test connection shall be provided downstream of the pump that creates a flow of water equal to the smallest sprinkler K-factor on the system.
(2) Pump motors using ac power shall be rated for 240 V and wired in accordance with the NEC (NFPA 70). [Note: This requirement covers pumps used in all types of systems, regardless of water source]
(3) Any disconnecting means for the pump shall be approved.
(4) The pump shall be located not less than 1.5 in. off the floor.
A test connection is an outlet (like a garden hose spigot) that allows the homeowner to test whether the water flows to the sprinkler system, as well as test a waterflow alarm, if one is present. It simulates the flow to a single sprinkler head, and “the smallest sprinkler K-factor” essentially means “the smallest rate of discharge for a sprinkler.”
Having a test connection is specified in the pump requirements because it basically verifies that the pump is doing its job. If a pump is used in conjunction with a tank in a standalone system, the test connection should ideally be designed to return the test water to the tank, so it stays full.
The 240-V requirement is in place because “experience has shown that 240-V rated pumps reduce the likelihood for the pump to draw excess amperage, which can result in the tripping of associated circuit breakers in the electrical panel and cause the pump not to operate.” This electrical requirement actually applies to all pumps, not just those used in standalone systems.
And keeping the pump 1.5” off the floor is simply intended to make sure standing water can’t short circuit or otherwise interfere with the pump. There are a variety of manufacturers that make relatively inexpensive pumps which meet these standards.
The major classifications of home fire sprinkler heads govern where the heads are placed and how they operate: pendent, upright, and sidewall. Within those categories, a sprinkler can be concealed or exposed, and have an ordinary or intermediate temperature rating.
There are other variations of sprinkler heads, like quick response sprinklers that are required for “dry” systems or in special locations like saunas, steam rooms, and mechanical closets – but the overwhelming majority of residential fire sprinkler systems are “wet” (water is always in the pipe) and those special areas often do not require sprinkler coverage.
The essential types of home fire sprinkler:
- Pendent fire sprinkler heads hang from the underside of pipe that delivers the water. These are installed in ceilings and use a defector that sprays the water downward in a circular pattern.
A typical pendent fire sprinkler head.
- Upright heads sit upright from the supply pipe. These are more often seen in commercial applications, though they can be installed in a home; they are “used mostly in places where obstructions may block water spray during a fire, and their height allows them to aim water around possible obstacles.” They can also provide coverage in spaces where there is no place to run pipe up the walls or in the ceilings.
Upright fire sprinkler head that could be used in a residential application.
- Sidewall sprinklers, as you’ve probably guessed, jut from vertically-running pipe and the sides of walls. They have a deflector that sprays the water in a crescent pattern at an angle. Sidewalls are installed in areas where they may be a better option than pendent sprinklers. For example, they may be used in the uppermost floors of a house to avoid having to run pipe in an attic subject to freezing temperatures, or in other rooms where pipes can’t fit into the ceiling.
A horizontal sidewall sprinkler rated for residential use.
- Concealed sprinklers use an aesthetically pleasing cover plate that is sensitive to high temperature. Once the plate senses a certain temperature, it drops away and the sprinkler head is exposed. An essential warning when using concealed sprinklers is to never paint over the cover plates, as dried paint over the seams will cause them to fail.
A concealed pendent sprinkler with a cover plate that hides the sprinkler head.
- Sprinklers heads with an ordinary temperature rating deploy when the temperature around the trigger reaches 135°F to 170°F (57°C to 77°C).
- Sprinklers with an intermediate temperature rating deploy when the temperature reaches 175°F to 225°F (79°C to 107°C).
There are sprinklers with a higher temperature rating that could be used in a residential system, but doing so is unusual, given the high upper limit of the temperature ranges above. NFPA 13D specifies the use of either ordinary or intermediate temperature-rated sprinklers in rooms “where maximum ambient ceiling temperatures do not exceed 100°F (38°C),” and only permits the use of intermediate-rated sprinklers in rooms “where maximum ambient ceiling temperatures are between 101°F and 150°F (38°C and 65°C).”
Why would an installer use an intermediate temperature-rated sprinkler in a normal room? To adjust for specific heat sources, according to NFPA:
- Sprinklers under glass or plastic skylights exposed to direct rays of the sun
- Sprinklers in an unventilated concealed space under an uninsulated roof or in an unventilated attic
- Sprinklers installed near specific heat sources [such as fireplaces, kitchen ranges, furnaces, etc.]
There is also the option to move ordinary temperature rated sprinkler heads farther away from any heat sources in a room, and NFPA 13D outlines minimum distances from these hot spots to avoid accidental discharge.
How many fire sprinkler heads are necessary?
The most important thing to know is NFPA 13D’s overall guidance, which recommends “sprinklering of all areas in a dwelling,” but does not require it. Essentially, sprinklers only need to cover rooms of a certain size that are considered living areas. Standard sprinklers cover a 12’ x 12’ area and extended coverage sprinklers cover a 20’ x 20’ area, and each head must be placed at least 8’ apart; thus, many rooms will only need one or two sprinkler heads.
This image shows how a residential system only needs 1-2 sprinkler heads per room. (Image Source)
Sections of a home that can be excluded from coverage according to NFPA standards include small bathrooms, garages, closets, and other storage spaces. The reason? “The historical loss data associated with fires in residential properties serves as a reasonable justification to permit the omission of sprinklers in spaces where a low incidence of fire deaths has occurred, thus lowering costs.”
From the 2016 Edition of NFPA 13D:
8.3.2 Sprinklers shall not be required in bathrooms of 55 ft2 (5.1 m2) and less.
8.3.4* Sprinklers shall not be required in garages, open attached porches, carports, and similar structures.
8.3.5 Sprinklers shall not be required in attics with or without storage, penthouse equipment rooms, elevator machine rooms, concealed spaces dedicated exclusively to and containing only dwelling unit ventilation equipment, floor/ceiling spaces, elevator shafts, crawl spaces, and other concealed spaces that are not used or intended for living purposes.
8.3.6 Sprinklers shall not be required in covered, unheated projections of the building at entrances/exits as long as the dwelling unit has another means of egress.
8.3.8 Sprinklers shall not be required in closets in garages and exterior closets (regardless of size) located on exterior balconies, exterior breezeways/corridors, or accessed from outdoors where the closet does not have doors or unprotected penetrations directly into the dwelling unit.
8.3.9 Sprinklers shall be installed in any closet used for heating and/or air-conditioning equipment, washers and/or dryers, or water heaters except as allowed by 8.3.8.
Despite those guidelines, your local government may require additional coverage in some or all of these areas. Be sure to check your local codes and hire a knowledgeable installer who has experience navigating them.
NFPA 13D specs are also intended to avoid accidental discharges from normal heat sources, the deployment of one sprinkler blocking the deployment of another, any obstructions (like ceiling fans and light fixtures), and large “shadow areas,” which are “sections of the floor area obstructed from sprinkler discharge, which will remain relatively dry.”
To be continued: A Guide to Installing Home Fire Sprinklers
In the next installment of this series, we’ll round out the major system components of a home sprinkler system, exploring the pipe options that can be used in standalone and multipurpose systems.
Are you looking to buy components for your home fire sprinklers? View QRFS’ selection of residential system components or use the search bar at the top of the page.
If you have any other questions about residential fire sprinklers or need help finding an item, add a comment below, give us a call at 888.361.6662, or fill out our contact form and we’d be happy to assist.